Windy boat rides

Getting your bearings in Reykjavík also requires acquiring your sea legs. So, over the last few days I've spent quite a bit of time on or near the water. 

Elding, a company that seems to rule the old harbor in Reykjavík, operates a number of tours and general transport in the area. Their employees are easily spotted along the coast due to their bright red 66° North gear and I used the the company for two recent excursions.

 The first trip was one of Reykjavík's most popular tours: whale watching. Departing mid-morning from Ægisgarður pier, we headed into the bay and portions of the the North Atlantic. During the +3 hour ride we managed sighting of four cetacean-species: some Minke whales, a shy Humpback whale, a few of the famously elusive porpoises,  and a big group of very playful white-beaked Arctic dolphins who chased our boat's wake for quite a bit. Among the school of dolphins was a very small calf. To say that our Swedish guide was excited about the calf is an understatement and he guessed that the dolphin was only a day or two old based on its size and close proximity to the mother.    Beyond his contagious enthusiasm for baby dolphins, our guide was spectacular for his encyclopedic knowledge of the area's geography, flora, and fauna. Plus, he could say the names of all the mammals and birds we encountered in at least six different languages. Based on the international composition of visitors on the boat, he was spot on with all of his phrases and pronunciations. 

Although it was sad to leave the peaceful ocean, filled with frolicking dolphins and puffins floating about, my fingers and ears were absolutely frozen so I was happy to return to land for a change of dry clothes and hot coffee.  I wouldn't be surprised if my time here includes a few more Elding-led trips. The company keeps a pretty entertaining Whale diary that is worth reading and it is also worth noting that the tour did an excellent job of illuminating a darker part of the Icelandic relationship with whales: it is one of only three nations with an active whaling culture (Norway and Japan are the other two) and the only nation to have whaling and whale watching occurring in the same waters. 

Visible throughout the harbor and city due to their distinctive shirts, a small group  actively campaigns against the whaling industry and through their work a large number of companies in the city now pledge whale-free operations: they do not sell whale (or puffin) as a 'traditional Icelandic' dish and a number of shipping agencies refuse to transport the whale products. Nonetheless, a few restaurants still boastfully advertise their Minke whale appetizers and I've seen more tourists than I can count digging into one bite then pushing the rest of the plate away. Environmentally reckless and wasteful, all in one course. I'll stick to some traditional Icelandic beer, thank you very much!

The second trip on the sea was a much shorter one, to the island of Viðey in Kollfjödur. The roundtrip ferry ride to Viðey was included in the Reykjavík City Card, a surprisingly handy pass that can be activated for 24, 48, or 72 hours for access to a wide range of the city's museums in addition to unlimited travel on the city buses…more on that in a later post.

​Although a tiny island, just a short ride from Reykjavik's old harbor, it boasts a rich history: some of Iceland's oldest stone structures stand on the summit and there are two contemporary art installations, the Imagine Peace Tower by Yoko Ono and Áfangar [Milestones](1990) by Richard Serra, both visible in the aerial video below.

The walk around the island was a bit treacherous because of the uneven and slippery gravel paths but I will definitely be taking a trip back to the island again. Rain squashed the first bits of our visit but thankfully the clouds passed and the harbor's famously moody skies returned for my first flight with the drone in Iceland. I've been quite cautious with the drone since my arrival, leery of flying it in exceeding windy conditions and not sure of how the sensors or propellers would respond to the ubiquitous mist. The airspace ban of 1.5km radius from the domestic airport means that much of central Reykjavík is off limits and I'm mindful that Iceland, like most places, is still developing its attitude towards drone use. So, Viðey seemed like a good place for a trial run.

After watching no less than three drones hover quite closely over the crowd gathered in town last night to celebrate the Icelandic team's soccer victory over England, I think I'll be taking Spectre* out to play much more frequently!

2016-06-27 21.10.26 from Danielle Willkens on Vimeo.

2016-06-27 20.56.06 from Danielle Willkens on Vimeo.

*Every piece of personal transportation or ridiculous toy needs a name. My DJI Phantom 4 is named Spectre after its first real flight over the ruins of the fictional town of Spectre from Big Fish (2003), located on the surreal Jackson Lake Island outside of Montgomery, AL.